Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and visitors equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive roster of world cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it becomes part of a worldwide network of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "demonstrates its deep-rooted food heritage and dynamic culinary scene," as stated by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this time-honored city arrives as little surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's most populous state – is now in the spotlight for what has always shaped its heart: an profound love for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing conversation from morning until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, refined, and raised to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of food experimentation, fusing Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on every corner, there are small establishments and stalls – lesser-known gems that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is precise and complicated. The cook beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though say that their children are unwilling to take up the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will inspire more people around the world to learn these tales and travel to the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
